The boutique of the feminine star of the ‘Antwerp Six’ Ann Demeulemeester, whose complex surname gave 6 Antwerp designers their nickname, which has become a brand in the history of fashion, is 25 years old. At the same time, the inscription on its window means that it presents the sensational 2025 collection presented in Paris – homage to adolescence.
Appointed art director of the fashion house in 2023, Stefano Gallici (Ann left haute couture six years ago) drew inspiration from his teenage days when he discovered music and art: the first time he picked up a guitar, the first time he put the needle down on a record he’d never heard of before. Most of us have been down that road and remember it with a touch of nostalgia. Do you remember the first time you heard your favourite record? Do you remember how your mind was turned upside down? How much we have been shaped visually by the pages torn from magazines that teenagers pin on the walls of their room. The European teenager’s Playlist was different from ours, but there were crossovers. Especially with my male friends.
The designer addresses his teens with a romantic reverence. He creates poetic, layered silhouettes that speak directly to the drawings of Ann Demeulemeester herself. Romance flows from one era to another: collars with ruffles are layered over delicate linen shirts alongside velvet tailoring and Victorian Gothic lace skirts. Straps dangle from the sleeves in Ann Demeulemeester’s characteristic dishevelled manner, while trousers cascade down to the floor. Classic meets contemporary with worn-in post-punk parkas and leather biker jackets. From black to white and back again, the monochrome palette is broken only by the odd pair of jeans, a new addition to Gallici’s repertoire, ripped and patched.
It sounds like a flashback to the youth of 60-somethings, but it looks fresh and fashionable. Fashion House prices are also for comrades of this age, financially established. But in my opinion, such brands also exist for inspiration. I was personally fascinated by 2024’s autumn/winter collection with its fur collars on leather tresses and jackets.
